Full Build Instructions for pi-Stomp v3
Before you begin...
Disclaimers
- By building and using a pi-Stomp kit, you assume all responsibility
- Tree Fall Sound LLC cannot be held responsible for any damages or injury which may result during assembly or usage
- Tree Fall Sound LLC will provide support but cannot be held responsible if your build does not function as expected
Tips
- As shipped, many hardware pieces are used to secure the PCB in the enclosure. While dis-assembling you might want to have a tray or shallow box underneath to catch falling washers, etc.
- Click on any photo to enlarge
- A small Phillips screwdriver is needed
- Fingers can be used instead of a wrench for the hex-spacers, jacks and encoder hardware. If you do use a wrench, only lightly tighten.
First, it's important to identify the parts for assembling the PCB (Printed Circuit Board).
PCB Bill of Materials
| ID | Qty | Description | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCB | 1 | pi-Stomp PCB | |
| AC | 1 | Audio Card (IQ Audio Codec Zero) | |
| LCD | 1 | LCD | |
| Pi | 1 | Raspberry Pi | |
| PAC | 1 | Pi Active Cooler | |
| S6 | 14 | 6mm (0.25“) Screw | |
| H10 | 2 | 10mm (0.4”) Hex Spacer (for Audio Card) | |
| H15 | 4 | 15mm (0.6“) Hex Spacer (for pi) | |
| S10 | 4 | 10mm (0.4”) M2.5 Screw (for LCD) | LCD parts bag |
| N2 | 8 | 2mm Nut (for LCD) | LCD parts bag |
| W1 | 8 | 1mm thick Washer (for pi and LCD) | LCD parts bag |
| J8 | 1 | 8 conductor dupont Jumper (for LCD) | LCD parts bag |
Note that for hardware id's the number corresponds to the length or thickness (eg. N2 : 2mm thick nut)
Other than the footswitches, most parts of pi-Stomp mount to the pi-Stomp PCB.
Three other boards (Audiocard, LCD and Raspberry Pi) will plug into the pi-Stomp PCB and then are secured with nylon hardware.
The front side of the PCB has the encoders (knobs), the back side of the PCB, looks like this:
Step #1: pi-Stomp Board Nylon Spacers
Add 4 Spacers for the pi
The Pi will be held in place with 4 long H15 (15mm) hex spacers plus a 1mm washer, at the locations shown
- Insert a short S6 (6mm) screw from the Front side of the PCB
- Add a W1 (1mm) washer from the Back side of the PCB
- Twist on a H15 (15mm) hex spacer and finger tighten
Repeat for the remaining 3 spacers
Add 2 Spacers for the Audio Card
The Audio Card (DAC/ADC) will be held in place with 2 H10 (10mm) hex spacers at locations shown
- Insert a short S6 (6mm) screw from the Front side of the PCB
- Twist on a H10 (10mm) hex spacer and finger tighten
- Repeat for other hole
- Do not plug-in boards yet
Step #2: Prepare the Pi
Attaching the Raspberry Pi Active Cooler
Remove the cooler port protection plug (can discard that)
Plug in the active cooler (the plug is directional)
Flip the cooler and remove the sheet to expose the blue adhesive pads
Align the cooler pins, stick the cooler down, push down the two spring loaded pins until the barbs grab and the cooler is secured.
Step #3: Prepare the LCD
Add four S10 screws as shown
Add washer W1 then nut N2 to secure all four screws to the LCD board. The washer + nut is used to provide the proper spacing between the LCD board and the pi-Stomp PCB.
Step #4: Attach boards
The order matters!
Attach LCD
Place the LCD, insert protruding LCD screws into the holes on pi-Stomp board.
Flip the board, Attach 3 nuts (N2) from the back side of the PCB. Tighten (by finger or pliers)
Note that you'll only connect the top 8 pins of the LCD header which will roughly align with their connected pin on the pi-Stomp board. Connecting the wrong pins can cause damage to the pi or LCD.
Attach Audio Card
Make darn sure the 3-pin sockets on either end of the card connect to the corresponding pins on the pi-Stomp PCB.
If by chance, your card didn't include the 3-pin sockets, please email support@treefallsound.com
Attach Pi
Plug it in as shown. Make sure all 40 pins engage correctly
Secure with four S6 screws
Note: At this point, you could boot it up or wait until it's all mounted in the enclosure.
Final Assembly
Enclosure Assembly Bill of Materials
| ID | Qty | Description |
|---|---|---|
| ENC | 1 | Enclosure |
| ES | 4 | Enclosure Screw |
| JW | 8 | Jack Washer |
| JN | 4 | Jack Nut |
| JT | 4 | Jack Trim Washer |
| EWN | 4 | Encoder Washer (nylon) |
| EWM | 4 | Encoder Washer (metal) |
| EN | 4 | Encoder Nut |
| EK | 4 | Encoder Knob (soft touch 18-tooth) |
| LL | 6 | LED Lens |
| LR | 6 | LED Lens Retainer ring |
| FS | 4 | Footswitch with lead & Molex connector |
Step #5: Prepare Enclosure
Add LED lenses
Insert lens (LL) from the top side, secure with retaining ring (LR) from the back
Repeat for all 6 lenses
Step #6: Mount PCB into Enclosure
Add a Nylon Encoder Washer (EWN) to each encoder
If you haven't yet, remove the protective film from the LCD.
Tilt the PCB vertical and add a Jack Washer (JW) to each of the 4 I/O jacks
While performing quite the balancing act to keep the washers on, insert the PCB into the Enclosure as shown
Add a Jack Trim washer (JT) to one of the I/O jacks, then a Jack Nut (JN). Finger tighten to pull the PCB toward the enclosure
Add a metal Encoder Washer (EWM) to one of the encoders, then an Encoder Nut (EN). Finger tighten to pull the PCB towards the enclosure face.
The PCB should be positioned well now. Add the hardware similarly for the remaining encoders and I/O jacks.
Step #7: Connect Footswitches
Step #8: Add Knobs
The soft-touch encoder knobs (EK) are splined inside.
You might need to rotate the knob slightly while pushing towards the enclosure until the splines align and the knob fully seats onto the shaft.
Step #9: Install the software
Step #10: Attach Bottom Enclosure Plate
Once you've booted up and verified that everything is working.
You may need to smush down the LCD ribbon cable if it resists the enclosure from coming together.
Secure with the 4 metal screws.
Stick on 4 rubber feet if desired.

















